10tkm SKF MTRX

The more you ride, the more stuff you gonna break. Sometimes you you just cannot keep up with replacing chains, cleats, cables and... bearings. For the longer rides I still use the same wheelset since 2014, actually two of them. Two because I sent it in for service quite a few times. So swapping them helped to still have a working one. Most times it were the bearings which had to be replaced. Felix was regularly asking what I had done to the wheels. So basically just riding. But when you do a lot of riding throughout the year it means rain, mud and dust. Well, you can't service the SON dynamo hubs by yourself. Since the magnetic drag is quite high it's also difficult to assume the condition of the bearings itself. Sticking to sending them in on regular basis is still the game. That leaves the rear hub to look after. White Industries CLD - a masterpiece and a beauty -robust, reliable and easy to service. The hub got two different bearing types - 6902 & 3802. Both I replaced a few times and each time I opened the seals to check the inner surface condition it was always the same. Rusty and rough with some pitting. Even on the bit better sealed ones. And - no, I don't use a KĂ€rcher for cleaning the bikes.

So I felt really tempted when I came across the news that SKF came up with something that could help on that. The MTRX series sounded pretty promising on keeping dirt and water out of the bearings. For the 6902 I took the KAMB MTRX07 (15x28x7) 61902. For replacements of the 3802 type SKF does not have the exact dimension as alternative. Having asked SKF about their opinion they did not fully recommend to put two smaller ones instead one wide bearing in operation - but they also did not rule it out completely "...it depends...". Light-Wolf did not had put them into operation so far. So I asked White Industries about their opinion on using two bearings with 5mm width, instead one 15x24x10 two 15x24x5. Means I wanted to pick the KAMB MTRX06 (15x24x5) 61802. And they confirmed to do so. Before they got supplied with the 10mm width bearings they did so too - as an old version of the hub description mentions: http://www.whiteind.com/cld2 (which is not online anymore).

Yep, they come with a price tag one would not like to get five pieces just for a single hub. But if it comes down to cent per km...?

(alright, it's not 15tkms yet. sry for being so lazy)

Since I changed the original bearings I put a bit over 10tkm on the wheels - enough to get an impression if they are worth the investment. Normally I would feel some wear when turning the axle, some resistance, rough and far from friction free. This time - nothing. Simply just as right after I put them in place. Seems it takes a bit more to kill them. Let's see how long. ;)


Da wahl doch was.

Alle paar Jahre wieder. Auf den vielen Kilometern durch die schönsten Ecken des Nordosten tut es mir alle paar Jahre weh durch die Dörfer und Orte zu fahren. Es ist Wahl. Und es wird geworben. Ich habe lange genug hier oben gelebt um zu wissen wie viel Idioten hier leben. Wieviel politische Idioten. Die Menschen sind oft im einzelnen und ĂŒberhaupt in Ordnung. Aber wenn es zur Politik kommt oft echt enttĂ€uschend.

Da gibt es die klassischen Alt-Parteien-FunktionĂ€re. FrĂŒher wĂ€ren sie super in der SED-Matschepampe hochgeschnorchelt. Heutzutage ist der eine FDP, der andere SPD und die nĂ€chste CDU. KlĂŒngel und wer-kennt-wen gibt es ĂŒberall wo es was zu verteilen gibt. Die GrĂŒnen spielen eine Randnotiz-Rolle, die Linke zehrt von Opposition und alter Zeit.

Und dann gibt es die RattenfĂ€nger. In einem Bundesland das mit Lichtenhagen bekannt wurde. In dem wir auf's Maul bekamen weil wir im AJZ Mucke gemacht haben. Wo bunte Hosen oder zwei StrĂ€hnen Dreads ĂŒber ZĂ€hne raus oder gebrochene Rippen entscheiden konnten. Wo es die Verlierer der Wende in die dumpfen Parolen trieb.

Und dann fĂ€hrst Du 2017 wieder ĂŒber Land und siehst all den Schwachsinn. Dieses Opferrollen-GesĂŒlze dass das Abendland zu retten sei, die martialischen Parolen was man als Deutsche alles besser könne und man auf niemanden angewiesen sei.

Das tut weh. Und ich weiss keine andere Antwort als den Guten, den Findigen, alles erdenkliche zu wĂŒnschen dass die braune Scheisse den Gully runter geht.

Ich muss immer wieder an die Fotografin aus Neubrandnburg denken die 2007 wieder nach dort zurĂŒckkehrte, sich selbststĂ€ndig machte und ganz klein anfing - "sonst bleibt es hier ja so Scheisse.". Ich bewundere sie noch heute dafĂŒr.


wir sollten alle viel mehr Klingeln

Der kleine Zwerg zirkelte von links nach rechts, die Tretbewegungen waren genauso impulsiv wie das stĂ€ndige nach links und rechts Schauen. Das wichtigste war sowieso die Klingel. Die musste nĂ€mlich die ganze Zeit bespaßt werden.

Und da mach ich doch gerne mit. PlĂŒmm-plĂŒmm-plĂŒmm

Sollten wir alle viel öfter machen. So viel Freude mit so wenig Aufwand.


Garmin Edge 810 - replacing USB + SD card board

For those riding a bit more or often, charging their 810 via dynamo hub, might observe that the USB port is a pretty weak part of the unit. After a few 10k it became bit annoying to plug in while riding. And I'm not the only one.

Since I'm not a friend of getting new stuff just because of a small worn out part I got me some spares from eBay.

So that's how you change it. I tried to get every step in a pic so you can follow disassembling and putting together again also just for cleaning purposes. It really looked a bit dirty along the sealing rubber. Ah, and don't wonder bout the screen - it just looks a bit worn but that's just the protective matte foil.

The 810 and the new board. Ready to play.

Taking off the rubber case and SD-card. Unscrewing the cover rubber of the ports.

Unscrewing all 6 screws from the back panel.

Taking apart both parts, finger nail should do the job.

This step would not be necessary but I wanted to show the whole story.

Typical connector for screens, you might know from notebooks. Push the black part on both sides gently towards the screen.

The cable now goes out of the connector easily.

Take off the rubber seal. You might want to clean it with some alcohol.

Lift the mainboard with a thin tool, needle or similar.

The mainboard has a port on the backside which connects to the USB board.

Now lift the white plug from the port, small screwdriver helps.

So far easy stuff. Now you need to disconnect both remaining cables.

280°C is absolutely enough, 260°C should be fine.

It just takes two seconds per wire.

The USB board itself is glued onto the case with some sort of black silicone.

It is not really sticking to the plastic case. So just take your time and go along the edge of the board.

You don't need to win a beauty contest.

With a thin blade you should be able to lift the board.

And there it is.

Once you have cleaned the case from the remaing black stuff check if the new board fits well.

From now it's just the same stuff backwards. I had pretty good results with clear window silicone.

It's a bit better to handle in a smaller portion.

Will be way to much.


And that's how it's done. Before you do this side, go around along the case once before (forgot to make a pic).

After you filled the gap around the board take a Q-tip with a bit soap and form a smoth surface.

Make sure you don't build up too much material. Check along the SD-card slot and USB port, take off what's sticking in the way.

After a while the silicone should start to cure. Time to solder the wires. Depending on the silicone it can take two days until cured completely. So don't rush with putting back in service.

Plug in the cable.

Put the main board back into place, press to connect to the USB board.

Put the seal in the right direction.

Make sure it is in place.

Connecting the screen.


Once you have connected the screen and the upper case to the board remove all dust from the screen and the glass. Demin water with a Q-tip helps.

Now put the case together.

Looks familiar.

So far, everything looks fine.



That's it. Not rocket science. Just take your time. The new connector is tight as it should be. Since it is really just the USB-connector I might try to take it off the USB board and replace that one with a new one as well. Just in case... :-)